Spanish Moss

(First published on Hardisonink.com) 

      No image of the deep south is complete without showing Spanish moss swaying in the breeze.  Spanish moss is most frequently seen hanging from oak and cypress trees, but may also be found on other plants, fences, power lines and most anything else that will give it support.

     Spanish moss is actually not a moss at all, but a bromeliad.  It is a perennial herb in the pineapple family.  It is covered by tiny scales that "catch" water and nutrients from the air and rain water and therefore has no need for a root system.  It grows best in moist areas but can survive drought by going dormant until conditions improve.

     Spanish moss produces tiny, inconspicuous pale greenish-blue flowers that may give off a light fragrance at night. Pods develop after flowers and eventually split open to release very tiny seeds.  These seeds are then dispersed by birds and the wind. Fragments of the plant may also blow off or be carried off by birds to where they will reproduce new plants.

     Throughout history, there have been many uses for Spanish moss.  Insulating homes, mulching, stuffing mattresses, cushions, and pillows, packing material, and decorating flower arrangements are among the many benefits that Spanish moss has provided.  Birds build their nests with it, and a variety of wildlife such as bats, reptiles, amphibians and insects use it as home sites and for protective cover. 

     Although Spanish moss has a reputation for being a parasite and killing trees, it robs no nutrients from them.  It will add weight to limbs that might cause unhealthy ones to break.  It also might slow the growth of a tree by shading its leaves and preventing photosynthesis from occurring.  There is really no need, however, to remove Spanish moss from your trees.  It plays a valuable role in Florida's ecology and, if removed, will eventually return.

     If handling Spanish moss, be sure to wear protective clothing and good insect repellent because it is frequently infested by redbugs, or chiggers, which cause an itchy red rash.

     For more information on Spanish moss, visit http://solutionsforyourlife.ufl.edu/hot_topics/environment/spanish_moss.html ,

http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/giam/shows/transcripts/2007/april_2007/spanish_moss.pdf, or http://www.sfrc.ufl.edu/4h/spanish_moss/spanmoss.htm

Photo used with permission.

14 Ways to Conserve Water in Your Landscape

(First published on Hardisonink.com)

     Cool, clear water on a hot summer day tastes so sweet.  It seems so abundant, yet it's such a precious, scarce resource.  We must have it to survive, but our supplies are constantly being threatened. Growing populations, salt water intrusion into fresh water wells, pollution, and other factors reduce the state's available water supply.

 

Sprinkler watering the street!

     Gardens and landscapes also need fresh water to survive.  There are many ways, however, that water use can be managed to keep the garden healthy without hurting the environment.

     Here are 14 ways to conserve water in your landscape.

     1.  Let the lawn tell you when it needs water.  Turn irrigation systems off and use them only when the lawn shows signs of drought stress.  This will increase rooting depth and drought tolerance.  Folding leaf blades, blue-gray color, and footprints remaining visible are all signs that the lawn needs water.   

     2.  Use the proper amount of water.  In most Florida soils, applying between 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch of water is adequate.  Applying more water than the grass can absorb only wastes water and pollutes water supplies.  A too-wet lawn also increases the risk of disease and weed problems.

     3.  Water plants early in the morning.  Wind and temperature levels later in the day increase evaporation.

     4.  Hand water when possible, because it uses less water than an automatic irrigation system.

     5.  Check irrigation systems to be sure rain sensors are working properly.  Required by state law since 1991, rain sensors skip irrigation if it has rained.

     6.  Consider using a cistern or rain barrel for catching water for irrigation.  Cisterns are storage tanks that collect rainfall.  Information on cistern design, construction and use can be found at "Cisterns To Collect Non-Potable Water For Domestic Use," http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ae029.

     7.  Point sprinkler heads at plants, not streets, driveways and sidewalks.

     8.  Check weather forecasts.  If rain is forecast in the next forty-eight hours, hold off on irrigating.

     9.  Apply water only as fast as the soil can absorb it.  Otherwise, water will run off quickly and carry soil away, exposing roots to harsh sunlight.

Drip Irrigation, "Conserving Water in the
Home Landscape," by Robert J. Black

     10. Use drip or trickle irrigation.  In drip irrigation, a plastic tube is located on or below the ground surface.  Nozzles from the tube slowly release water around the plants.  This saves water, limits weeds, and increases growth of the plant.  

     11.  Grow drought-tolerant plants. 

     12.  Plan your landscape to conserve water.  Use the principle, "Right Plant, Right Place," and select plants that suit your yard.  More information and suggestions on plant selection can be found in "Planning Your Landscape to Conserve Water," at http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/water/articles/planning.shtml . 

     13. Apply 2 to 3 inches of mulch around plants to retain moisture in the soil and prevent competition from weeds.

     14. Repair leaking hoses, sprinklers, and faucets. Test the irrigation system periodically to make sure it’s operating correctly.

     These recommendations include some ways we can help to conserve water.  It is essential to balance our need for water in the landscape with the need for water conservation.  If we all work together we can help to protect our water supplies long into Florida's future.

     For more information about water use and conservation in Florida, see "Water Resources"at http://solutionsforyourlife.ufl.edu/environment/water_resources.html, and  "Watering and Irrigation" at http://solutionsforyourlife.ufl.edu/lawn_and_garden/maintenance_and_care/watering_and_irrigation.html.

Sources

"Let Your Lawn Tell You When To Water," by L.E. Trenholm and J. Bryan Unruh, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep054 .

"Conserving Water in the Home Landscape," by Robert J. Black, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/mg217

"Watering and Irrigation," http://solutionsforyourlife.ufl.edu/lawn_and_garden/maintenance_and_care/watering_and_irrigation.html

"Cisterns To Collect Non-Potable Water For Domestic Use," by Ray A. Bucklin, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ae029

Back Yard Birds Are Like "Flying Piglets"

(First published on Hardisonink.com)

     My husband calls them “flying piglets,” because of the way the birds scarf down the seeds from their feeders so fast.  It seems that he is re-filling the feeders every day.

     We use black oil sunflower seed in the feeders because that’s the food more types of feeder birds prefer.  When we used the commercially-bagged seeds from a department store, the birds threw most of them onto the ground and just ate what they liked.  Although it can get pricey, the pleasure we receive from watching the birds makes it well worth it.  It amazes me, as I watch them, how attached I’ve become to them.

     Some other foods that will attract birds are cracked corn, millet, safflower, thistle, suet, and fruits.  To attract a larger variety of birds, and without the expense of buying foods, native plants that provide food and cover can be added to your landscape.  A list of good plants can be found in “Attracting Birds” online at http://brevard.ifas.ufl.edu/Forms%20and%20Publications/PDF/Attracting%20Birds2.pdf.

     The varieties of birds we have seen change with the seasons.  Right now we are getting visits mostly from finches, cardinals, and doves at our tube feeder.  There are other types of feeders that will attract different birds.  Platform feeders, for example, will attract finches, cardinals, grosbeaks, sparrows, blackbirds, jays, titmice, pigeons, and doves.  Other types of feeders are hopper, nyjer tube, hopper, suet, nectar, and fruit.

     To find out what type of feeder attracts the birds you like visit "Attracting Backyard Birds: Bird Feeder Selection” at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/uw192 .

     Locate your feeder where you have a good view, but be aware that in the US one billion birds die from flying into windows each year.  If you cannot place the feeder away from your house, then it is best to locate it nearer rather than farther away from a window.  Within 3 yards of a window is considered best.  Most birds collide with windows as they leave a feeder and if they are near the window they can’t build up enough speed to cause serious injury.

     Keep your cat indoors so that your bird feeder does not become an evening smorgasbord.  Cats kill hundreds of millions of birds each year in the US.  It will also help to place your feeder in an open area, on a pole, away from shrubs that can conceal cats and other predators that might stalk your birds.

     Providing a water source, such as a bird bath, trees and shrubs for cover from predators, and bird houses will also attract birds to your back yard.

     Throughout all the seasons, I hope the time you spend watching the various birds come and go will be a relaxing and enjoyable experience.

Sources:

Bird Feeding Basics, Kress, S.W., National Audubon Society

Attracting Backyard Birds: Bird Feeder Selection, Wilcox, E.V., Hostetler, M.E., Main, M.B., and Voigt, M., University of Florida IFAS Publication #WEC 162.

The Wasp: Friend or Foe?

(First published at Hardisonink.com)

     Wasps.  I don’t like them.  I've been stung one too many times, and they really hurt.  For those with allergies wasps can be killers.

     I recently found a nest that some paper wasps had built on my ceiling fan blade, directly over my front porch swing.  I knew I had to get rid of them and thought it would be easy by just switching on the fan.  I hid inside my home, switched on the fan, and watched through the window for the wasps to start swarming, or maybe even falling to the floor chopped into pieces.  Nothing happened.  When I turned off the fan I could see the wasps clinging tightly to the nest for their lives. I couldn't help but laugh, thinking about the ride they'd just had.

     Wasps are considered beneficial insects and it might actually be a good idea to keep some around.  They prey on corn earworms, armyworms, other harmful caterpillars and pests and feed them to their developing young.   They are also good pollinators for plants. 

     If a nest is found where children play or near other activities, or if you have allergies, there are some effective ways to eliminate it.  There are high-powered sprays that can be used from a safe distance.   I don't recommend standing underneath the nest when it is sprayed, as the wasps will drop straight down.  And they won't be happy.  Nighttime is the best time to spray because the wasps are less active then and are likely to be on the nest.  Be sure to follow the directions on the label, sweep up the dead ones and destroy the nest afterwards. 

     As for my wasps, they are safe for now.  After watching them hang on for the ride of their life, I don't have the heart to kill them.  Maybe they'll show some appreciation and help me out by eating some of the pests in my garden.

     More information on the benefits of wasps, sting prevention, and wasp control can be found online at "Stinging or Venomous Insects and Related Pests," http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ig099#IMAGE%20IG:IG080D. 

Don't Scalp Your Lawn

(First published at Hardisonink.com) 

        It was the first to greet me when I arrived:  my grass with two weeks of uncontrolled growth.  We’d obviously gotten plenty of rain at home during my two-week vacation.  My first instinct was to hop onto my mower and chop it all down.  Fortunately, I knew from the University of Florida IFAS Publication, “Mowing Your Florida Lawn,” that cutting off more than one-third of the blade length at a time can cause severe stress to the plant.  So, I adjusted the cutting height of my mower first, even though my yard might look a little ragged before I’m able to cut the grass shorter.  

        Knowing when and how short to mow your grass is very important when trying to maintain a good quality lawn.   “Scalping,” or removing too much grass at one time, can cause long-term damage, leaving the grass vulnerable to insects, disease, and drought.  Taller grass will develop deeper roots and, therefore, be able to better tolerate drought, heat, traffic, insects, diseases, poor soil, and other adverse conditions.  

        The best cutting height depends upon the species of grass you have.  A grass that grows more horizontally is usually cut shorter than those that grow more upright.  Also, grasses with narrow blades can generally be cut shorter than those with wide blades.  Mow often enough so that no more than one-third of the blade height is removed per mowing.  If you know the species of grass in your lawn, then you can use the following chart to determine how often and how short it should be cut.

Turfgrass Species	Optimal Mowing Height (inches)	Mowing Frequency (days)
Bahiagrass	3.0 – 4.0	7 – 17
Bermudagrass	0.5 – 1.5	3 – 5
Carpetgrass	1.5 – 2.0	10 – 14
Centipedegrass	1.5 – 2.0	10 – 14
Seashore Paspalum	1.0 – 2.0	5 – 10
St. Augustinegrass	2.5 – 4.0*	5 – 14
Zoysiagrass	1.0 – 3.0	10 - 14
*Dwarf cultivars of St. Augustinegrass (Seville, Captiva, Delmar) are the only cultivars of this species that should be mowed at 2.5”.  Other cultivars should be mowed at 3.5-4”.

        Leaving grass clippings on the lawn will reduce yard waste and help recycle nutrients to the soil.  If the clippings clump they can be raked or blown to distribute them more evenly.

        The best ways to have a great lawn are to fertilize appropriately, mow at the highest possible height, and irrigate on an “as-needed” basis.  

        The above information comes from the University of Florida IFAS publication “Mowing Your Florida Lawn,” by L.E. Trenholm, J.B. Unruh, and J.L. Cisar, and can be found online at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/lh028 .  Additional ways to care for your lawn can be found at the web site, “Your Florida Lawn,” http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/yourfloridalawn/ .

Sandspurs

(First published at Hardisonink.com)

     As a young girl growing up in rural Florida, my preferred style of shoe was often none at all.  Going barefoot whenever possible, I enjoyed the feel of cool, tickly grass underneath my feet.  That is, until I found myself in a bed of sandspurs.  Sandspurs were nasty little burrs with stickers and barbs that broke off underneath the skin.  Then, when I tried to grab them to pull them out, they'd stick me again in my finger.

     Sandspurs are plentiful in central Florida because they love sandy, dry, and sunny locations.  There are two main types of sandspurs found in this area:  the Southern Sandspur (Cenchrus echinatus), and the Coast Sandspur (Cenchrus spinifex).  They are annuals, starting to grow in the spring and producing their stickery seeds at the end of summer.

     As with many pests, prevention is the best way to keep sandspurs from your lawn. An unkept lawn is a favorite place for sandspurs to grow.  The best way to avoid them, therefore, is to maintain healthy, vigorously-growing grass to crowd them out. 

     This is accomplished by following the three rules of turf care:  (1) Fertilize appropriately with a quality, slow-release granular fertilizer, and not a "weed and feed" product; (2) Mow your lawn as high as reasonable, no shorter than four inches for regular St. Augustine grass, 2 ½ inches for dwarf; and (3) Provide approximately 1/2 inch of water every week.

     Additional ways to care for your lawn can be found at the web site, “Your Florida Lawn,” http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/yourfloridalawn/ .

     If sandspurs are already well established in a lawn, elimination can take up to two years.  Since there are no weed killers that will adequately take care of the mature plants and seeds, the following tactics can be used in addition to the rules above.

     The first method of attack is to pull up the sandspurs by hand, or hoe them up, and dispose of them.  This can seem overwhelming, but if a few plants are pulled every day it can be accomplished. 

     Once the sandspurs have produced their seeds, or burs, remove as many as possible by pulling up the plant, using a vacuum mower, dragging an old towel or something over the area, or walking your long-haired Cocker Spaniel through the sandspur bed, as I once did accidentally.  I do not recommend this method. 

     Avoid spreading the sandspurs to other locations with lawnmowers, bicycle and vehicle tires, pets, or shoes and clothing.

     In February or March, when the sandspurs begin to grow, a pre-emergent herbicide can be applied to kill them.  Use one that is labeled for your particular type of grass, following label directions carefully, and apply it again in three to four months.  It is easier to take care of young seedlings than it is to kill mature plants with seed.  Use care, however, when using herbicides, as a whole lawn can be destroyed if they are used improperly.

     Keeping grass healthy with proper mowing, fertilization and irrigation, and avoiding further herbicide applications as much as practical, are the best ways to keep sandspurs from making a home in your yard. 

     I still enjoy going barefoot and the feel of grass under my feet.  Only now, I don't have to worry about getting stuck in my toes by sandspurs because I have the knowledge and the power to control them.

No Love For Lovebugs

 (First published on Hardisonink.com)

     I know you've seen them, splattered all over the front of your vehicle or hovering around thick as clouds near roadways and fields.  Lovebugs visit our area twice per year, once in late spring, April and May, and then again in late summer, August and September, and usually last four to five weeks each season. 

     Lovebugs can number in the hundreds of thousands and they die en masse on car hoods, windshields, and radiator grills.  Their decaying bodies are slightly acidic and, when dried, can be extremely difficult to remove.  This acidity can result in pits and etches in paint and chrome if left for a few days.  The cooling effect of radiators can also be reduced by air passages clogged by lovebug bodies.  Visibility can be dangerously reduced by windshield smears.

     Lovebugs hang out near roadways because they are attracted to automobile exhaust fumes, heat from engines and vibrations of vehicles themselves.

     There are several methods used to lessen the damages of lovebugs on vehicles. 

     Lovebugs like the warmth of the day and usually are thickest between 10:00 am and 4:00 pm.  So, if you'd like to avoid them on the roadway, a good method is to travel early in the morning or later in the evening.  A vehicle traveling slower might also make fewer impacts with lovebugs, and when riding a motorcycle, it's a good idea to keep mouths closed.

     Some people use wet dryer sheets, such as Downey or Bounce, to create a coating on the front of their car, believing it to make lovebug bodies easier to remove once splattered.  Dryer sheets can also be used to scour them off. 

     There are other people who recommend applying car wax or a thin layer of baby oil to the surface of vehicles for the same purpose.  Screens and hood deflectors can also be purchased to install on the fronts of vehicles to minimize the impact of lovebugs on the painted surfaces.

     Whether or not these methods help, a fair amount of effort is still required to remove lovebugs once they are dried and baked in the sun, so immediate cleaning is recommended.  Soaking for several minutes with water might be necessary.

     It has been rumored that the lovebug was created at the University of Florida by manipulating DNA and released as a way to control mosquito populations.  This is not true, however.  They originated in Central America and their migration has been followed throughout Florida and other southeastern states, starting in Texas, since 1940.  Their presence in central Florida was reported in 1955.  By the end of the 20th century they had become widespread all over the Gulf States and have been reported as far north as North Carolina.  

     Lovebugs, Plecia nearctica, are small black flies with red thoraxes, members of the Bibionidae family and known as March flies.  Males are 1/4 inch and females 1/3 inch in length.  Mating occurs almost immediately after reaching adulthood, and the pairs can remain coupled, even in flight, for days.  Females live only a few days and males slightly longer.

     Lovebug larvae are seldom seen because they live and feed in the thatch of grasses for most of the year.  They are beneficial in this regard because they feed on decaying vegetation in the landscape, helping it to degrade and provide nutrients for growing plants.  Adults feed only on nectar.

     Adult lovebugs have an acidic taste and therefore few predators feed on them.  Their larvae, however are food for birds, such as quail and robins, spiders, some predatory insects such as earwigs and beetles, and a centipede.

     Because lovebugs are not able to bite or sting and make little environmental impact, scientific research for controlling them is not a high priority when compared to other, more serious pests.  Any known methods to control them would also kill beneficial insects like bees and butterflies.  Although they are a nuisance, it is best to leave them alone.  They will be out for a few weeks and then disappear for most of the year.

     For more information on lovebugs visit http://entomology.ifas.ufl.edu/creatures/misc/lovebug.htm